West Coast Lager. BEEP BEEP BEEP— the dump truck’s reverse sound blares as the evil-grinned brewer waves it toward the kettle to dump in an unconscionable charge of hops. All the absurdity creates a harmonious blast of tangerine zest, pine and fresh, hop resin. With a bone-dry finish and a pleasing bitterness, the malt gets out of the way on this one. It’s unreasonable. It’s illogical. It’s unconscionable.