2006 750mL shared by BBB63 at O’Briens on 3/23/07
Typical Belgian bottle conditioning job leads to a ton of foamy white head, lacing the glass well and being thoroughly retained atop a bright hay-golden body with some very light amber tints. Clarity is mostly high, leaving the yeast behind, with tiny bubbles coarsing up through the liquid.
Really fragrant yeast in the nose shows of some autolysis, giving a touch of rubber and light plaster. Minor band-aid-like phenols and very dry lemon-lime signal light brett, but it’s very young yet and only allows a cursory glimpse. Very funky, and I have to admit to liking light autolysis more and more. The burnt rubber-like notes are definitely up front in the nose, though I dont think they go overboard. Can’t really explain how it works with the other notes or why I like it, but I do (it adds some sort of snappiness, I suppose). Through the middle and climaxing on the finish is a rich, rather sticky-sweet maltiness full of honey and fruit flavors (apricots, peaches). Definitely too sweet as it is (though only slightly so) but showing so much potential for aging, I actually think it a positive aspect, not the opposite. Lemon icing-like notes and minor vanilla linger on the finish, with a touch of dough. Very sniffable, high strength of aroma, with no alcohol or flaws (unless you consider the autolysis a flaw). Just a bit young, but certainly not something you should take points off for.
Unique in flavor, to say the least. Apples quickly give way to more interesting brett notes, with a bone dry, leatheriness and light horsey flavors that would seem to signify B Lambicus, though the cherry pie like flavor associated with that is not present, so who knows. More strong lemon and nectarine notes keep things tart and dry, but malt slowly edges out the tartness, adding a sticky honey sweetness that is just a touch too sweet yet (though it’s challenged by some dry, spicy phenols). As with the aroma, it will no doubt be brilliantly dry in another 6 months/year. But just looking at what’s there right now really allows you to appreciate how well malted this stuff is. It’s a clean, moderately rich honey flavor with light vanilla and some nutty biscuit notes. Very well done. Carbonation is, of course, tight and engaging, helping the drinkability and accentuating the acids. Soft, floral and grassy hops are held lightly in the background, melding with some spicy phenols and adding more complexity. Light alcohol warmth complements the flavors, though no raw alcohol is apparent. Exceedingly complex beer, I could go on for days about this stuff.... Love the almost smoky leatheriness and dry, horsey flavors.
Score is more a potential of what I think this beer will be down the road.