The 2017 iteration of Oerbier Special Reserva, aged in Madiran wine barrels - a 'cépage' from southwestern France known for its deep, spicy character, and of course not to be confused with the fortified wine madera which is much better known. I sampled this lovely series for the first time in 2002 when it just came out, then aged on Bordeaux barrels, which was maintained for years - I think this one was even the first to deviate from the Bordeaux formula. From a 75 cl bottle generously shared by the brewer's wife, the lovely Els, during a brewery visit last week - many cheers to Els and Kris for the hospitality, the bottles shared and the information provided, I cannot stress enough how satisfied I leave this brewery every single time I visit it. Medium sized, yellowish pale beige, moussey head breaking over a dark burgundy brown robe with caramel core, misty. Profound bouquet of old red wine, dry madera (no autosuggestion here - I think), dry caramel, dried plum, blackberry jam, balsamic vinegar (but not so sharp - perhaps rather balsamic syrup), oak wood, reduced port sauce on venison, sherry-soaked raisins, brown bread, figs. Very fruity onset, tart and sweet at the same time, blueberries, blackberries and red grapes, medium carbonated with very vinous and full body (having suffered absolutely zero from ageing); brown- bready and pecan-nutty core, caramelly too but less sweet, slightly toasty, dried by tart effects from the wine barrels and by tannic woodiness, leading to a very long and complex, warming, 'moelleux' finish with lingering earthy-hoppy note and lots of retronasal oxidised red wine, dried red fruit and balsamico. 'Oud bruin'-like in its net effects, but 'oud bruin' (or 'Flemish red' if you follow Michael Jackson) at its very best, as if made by some highly accomplished new wave craft brewery - ironically perhaps, as DDB can be seen as one of the very pioneers of craft brewing anywhere long before the term itself was even used. This is world class drinking and oldschool Belgian beer culture at is very finest.

Bottle from Hopduvel. Hazy brown, stable, small, foamy, tan head. Aroma of ripe passion fruit & blue plum, red grape, forest fruit jam, wood, dessert wine, cherry, almond. Taste has sweetish cherry & blue plum and sour passion fruit & blackcurrant in an almondy, jam-like, tad caramelly malt body surrounded by funky lactic notes. Tart finish of cherry stone, grape skin, tannic wood effects continued by warming red wine-like alcohol. Medium body, oily texture, average carbonation. Outspoken yet balanced; noble character, delicious.

Bottle, six weeks after canning. Pours clear dark mahogany, with a creamy off white head. Aroma is acetic notes of wine vinegar, wine grapes, cherries and dried fruits, as well as tannins and wooden barrels. Full body, with soft carbonation. Flavour is acetic notes of wine vinegar, leather, dried fruits and cherries, as well as tannins and wooden.

Bottle. Deep brown, a beige head is soon at the rim. Vinous aroma with chocolate, bread, dried and stewed fruit, vinegar, spices, the forest floor. The sourness and acidity that are only hints in normal Oerbier are more pronounced here but softened by oak and never sharp.

French oak version. Just fabulous. Tastes a bit more expressive than the other version, softer and more elegant. Dried dark fruits, deep red notes, tart and vinous. Candy licorice, kriek, juicy red grapes, wet wood, slightly tart. The epitome of balance.