Two draught tulips at the brewery on 3/11/2006
Inky, near-black pour is completely opaque with only a trickle of beige head that fizzles away to bubbles and then nothing, no lacing. Some deep brown-violet tinges are all that can be discerned, on the edges, when holding it to the light.
The nose packs in a sharp punch of dark, sour concord grapes, very light roasted barley, giving almost a coffee/composty sort of feel, and further deepening/sharpening the nose. But a subtle and lightly sweet chocolate? malt note, with some soft honey and other light sugars begin to balance. Soured plums, a light mineralic quality and very little hops that I can discern finish the complex and puzzling nose.
The flavor begins with a mix of chocolate tipped cigars, lightly sweet raisins (special b malt buffeted by chocolate malt???) and a nearly lactic note of acidity on the finish. Comforting malt body, however, softens the blow, and it really isnt sour, just tart and fruity (purple fruits). As it breathes and warms, light chocolate and honey malts emerge, with a little bit of grittiness thanks to the extremely unfiltered nature. Still can’t find any hops, in bitterness or flavor (maybe just the faintest bit of green, leafy hops). Alcohol marvelously masked, and the carbonation very low.
A little muddled and rough around the edges, not as clean and well-executed as McKenzie’s Dark saison, but what it loses against that one, (I think) it gains in just a pure unadulterated weirdness.
If you are curious to know what the saison-heads I travel with would think about it, I bet they all generally dislike it and give it a 2.5-3.0 range of scores.
But I thought it was unique and, excusing the mineralic quality inherent in their beers, a charming little drinker. Maybe not much of a saison, but then, I’ve never been one to rate much to style.