Draught samples at EBF 2006.
Murky coal black/brown body shows almost no clarity. Wispy beige-tan head sits atop lightly, receding to cover, with some sudsy lacing.
Shocking clarity in the nose of Belgian yeast (brett), yet is so seemlessly woven in with the American aspects of the beer (roast, chocolate, bourbon) that you’d think Mike had been perfecting this porter for years. Not overwhelmed by any one aspect, but with noticeable esters and light vanilla hints. The wood is soft, wise and reserved in the nose, leading to a light dusty, earthy, musty note that further deepens the complexity. Bourbon is faint and done as it should be, adding only a touch of liquorous magic to this already enchanting brett-spiked aroma. Certainly the fresh, unpasteurized nature of the beer does not hurt things either, as the grainy barley, soft chocolate and full malt sweetness soothes the nose.
The flavor has somewhat more in the bourbon department, though the wood dryness and light vanilla is more apparent. But choco-caramel sweetness, flecks of tar and ash and a dignified, raisin/prune-like old ale quality all calm things down as the beer nestles in to the palate. Warming shows more vinous qualities, and some stronger, slightly out-of-place brett bi-products, but it is still a terifically complex beer which is anything but your typical "porter". Dry, ashen-smokiness curls the tongue on the end, as tart fruits combine to leave a pleasing dryness. The soft, wonderfully extracted malt body, however, keeps the texture supportive. Carbonation is low, as expected. No alcohol is apparent.
What a masterpiece! Hopefully we see this again (and with the same restraint on the barrel character!).