Akkurat 30 Years - Lingon Berry

For its thirtieth year of existence, the famed beer restaurant Akkurat in Stockholm was treated by Lambiek Fabriek to not one, but two special editions each highlighting a typically 'Nordic' fruit - the polar Arctic brambleberry and the lingonberry, the latter being considerably more widespread and also occurring in other parts of the northern hemisphere (I saw them in the wild here in Belgium too many years ago, albeit only in the highest parts of the country). Also called foxberries, cowberries and lots of other names, the lingonberry is a classic accompaniment to Swedish köttbullar, which I had at Akkurat alongside a bottle of this lambic, shared with Goedele. Snow white, thin and open, tiny-bubbled ring of a head, needing a bit of forcing to develop and quickly dissolving again; initially clear, later misty ruddy-amberish orange robe. Aroma of evidently a lot of fresh lingonberry, bergamot, wet leather, unripe plum, dry forest floor, dandelion, old wood, unripe nectarine, old rosehip tea bags, dried thyme, 'Bretty' urine, dried orange peel, rowanberries, damp cellar. Crisp, tart onset, very fruity from the generously applied lingonberries but these are clearly a tad less capable of providing juiciness than the Arctic brambleberries in the other celebrational lambic they made for the same occasion; still, their non-sweet, herbal and tangy flavour is everywhere, in even a 'bright' and radiant kind of way, with side notes of unripe nectarine and citrus pith. Very minerally and lively carb, seemingly accentuating some or other natural minerality from the fruit, in a smooth, full, vinous body; bread-crusty with drying lactic edges, unripe stonefruit esters mingle with the lingonberries and their herbal, bergamot- and tea-like aromas into a drying, woody, tannic finish, the latter effect of course amplified by the fruit's skins and seeds. Nevertheless everything remains bright and colourful till the end, and the lingonberries have been used so generously that they offer juiciness enough to maintain high levels of drinkability - contrary to what I was expecting based on those very rare earlier experiences with lambics made with them (or closely related berries). Dried fruit-, tea- and rosehip-like elements, in the end almost a bit potpourri-like, lend this great lambic considerable character and elegance. Beautiful creation, though the lovely setting at Akkurat's outdoors terrace probably helped too.