The last of these ‘season’ geuzes that escaped me back at the time when they were released (2011), fortunately 3 Fonteinen’s Lambik-O-Droom offers the opportunity to taste them again as vintage beers, at eleven years of age now. It seemed only fitting to drink this one ‘in situ’ last weekend as 3 Fonteinen’s former manager and great inspirer, Armand Debelder, who took over the ‘geuzestekerij’ from his equally legendary father Gaston, passed away two weeks ago; I had the honour to be able to speak with him on several occasions and I can only confirm that this man was, as it were, a “gentle giant” in the world of lambic, with a legacy that can hardly be underestimated and will likely, hopefully, continue to thrive for generations to come. In a time when traditional lambic beers balanced on the verge of extinction, having been overflown by so many sweetened interpretations which hardly convey the lambic spirit (and sweet beers in general), 3 Fonteinen was one of only a handful of producers stubbornly and passionately trying to stick to the traditions, and very justly refused to make any compromises. This alone is enough reason to praise Armand, even regardless of the continuous high quality of his products and the fact that he was the founding father of HORAL among other things; I will cherish my memories of the private tour he gave me in his (then newly built) Lambik-O-Droom and other encounters with him for the rest of my lifetime. So, onto the beer then: dusty bottle from the cellar, opening with a bang and a lot of gunsmoke (but fortunately no gushing – which did happen with the same bottles on other occasions, according to the bartender); very thick, dense, frothy, egg-white and stable head, leaving shreds of lacing over a warm orangey amber coloured beer with copper- to rust brown tinge (a result of oxidation) and a fiery ‘storm’ of fine-bubbled sparking rushing through the beer. Aroma of a very noble, gracefully aged, profound geuze all around: dried peaches, very old orange peel, dry autumn leaves, grass silage, old dry sherry, old wooden furniture, tea bags, dry hay, funky notes of goat stable and cracked leather, oxidized white wine, dust. Spritzy onset, sharpish carbonation in a cava-like way but spot on for the style, lots of dried fruit aspects in a dry, non-sweet way, old dried apricots and peaches, orange peel sourishness at the edges merging with a ‘deep’, serene lactic tartness piercing through a bread-crusty core and reviving fruitiness near the end but this time in a brighter, more sour and crisp way (redcurrant, sour apple, even some sour grape) positioned against a background of noble woodiness, hints of old tea and tree leaves, mild funkiness and oxidized old sherry. The sourness keeps things refreshing in spite of the mature, noble, deeply textured character – this is as solid as oude geuze gets, like the other three in this series. Very close to the summer edition which I had last year so an equally fantastic drinking experience – Armand was deservedly ‘fier’ (proud) of this series, but now it is our turn to be proud of him. Cheers Armand, rest in peace. And thank you for so many beautiful beery moments.

Citrusy. Less or different complexity than Lente and Zomer. But very refreshing. With a sweeter worty background.

750ml bottle @ 3 Fonteinen, Lot. 2010 vintage. Funky, musty and complex with loads of cellar farmyardy notes, mild sourness, some tart earthiness and soft finish, mild carbonation. Quite well balanced and tasty, well aged.

Happeline, tammine, sidrun, puuviljane, natuke vesine, greip, veits oksüdeerunud. Hea.

(Bottle, purchased at De Bier Tempel, Brussels, a couple of years ago) Pale amber colour with frothy, off-white head. Fruity, sourish nose with notes of grapefruit, lemon, unripe fruit, green grapes, apples, barnyard, brett, hay and oak wood. Fruity, tart taste with grapefruit, green apples, lemon, gooseberries, barnyard, stable, vinegar, wood and a harsh, but fresh, acidity in the finish. Medium body, dry. Complex and really well made gueuze, with a fairly clean acidity. Great beer.

Bottle: Poured a dirty golden color lambic with a rather large off-white foamy head with good retention and some lacing. Aroma of funky Brett notes with some tart notes as well as oak. Taste is a complex mix of tart notes, oak and funky barnyard notes with very little sour notes are also noticeable. Body is about average with good carbonation. Solid lambic and quite lively considering the age of the bottle, probably one my favorite form this series.

Bottle @ Koelschip, Copenhagen shared by Tyler. Thanks buddy. Been wanting to try this one for a good while. Pours golden copper with a big white head. Aroma is herbal, light tart, sweet orange, floral, grapefruit, mouldy woody, sweet stone fruits. Taste is tart, lemony, herbal, stone fruits, oaky, earthy, mouldy, citrussy, lots of tannins. Damn, this is good! So complex and delicious.

Corked bottle. Orange color. Oak, honey and lemon in the aroma. Oaky lemon flavor with leather and honey. Rounded sours. Very drinkable. Complex enough, but there is room for more. Excellent, but not the very best Armand can offer.