Appearance - 8 | Aroma - 8 | Flavor - 8 | Texture - 8 | Overall - 8.5

2006 draught samples at Kennett Fest on 10/7/06
Orange-copper-blond colored beer is quite hazy, showing tiny bubbles rising at the surface to create a cascade-like effect of colors and carbonation, leading to an enamel-colored, dense head that shows medium to high retention and light lacing.
Highly fruity hops in the nose are pungent and very aromatic. No immense hard resin or obnoxious grapefruit overdose here. Bright and crisp for sure, but softened, somewhat, by a modest amount of caramel-honey sugariness. The malt and hop combination produces cherries and ruby red grapefruit notes, with some coniferous suggestions on the very end as the hop acids mix with the alcohol esters. By no means is it overly alcoholic in the nose, however (which is impressive for this abv). You can almost smell the texture, which just seems like it is going to be rather thick, comforting and fully supportive of the hops. Some nectarine and lemon zest notes, on the back of a very pungent spruce note really shows interesting complexity. Not just another mango, grapefruit, pine concoction.
The flavor really impressed me the most, however, being sweet, or as it sweet as it needs to be to balance, but seemingly going no further. Caramel and light honey, with some touches of bread/dough suggestions, immediately form a supportive texture and are attacked by the bitter grapefruit-like sharpness. It almosts reminds me of lemon juice, the hops being very dry through the middle and extremely pungent (almost sour). But as quickly as it comes, the caramel malts wash it away (mostly, anyhow) leaving flavor combinations of cherries, raisins, marmalade, sweet strawberries and sweetened limes in its wake. A snap of alcohol warmth and/or hop acidity closes it out and malt sugars comfort the palate until the next sip, not allowing any significant acidity (relatively speaking) to build.
Carbonation was quite appropriate, though low and mostly engaging. I think a little bit more would have even been beneficial though, as the malt seemed to take the upperhand slightly, by the end. Still, at this IBU and ABV, it’s remarkably well-done and not sloppy. Missing the near-perfect balance/attenuation of Pliny the Younger and PP Hop 15 and perhaps some more pils malt in place of the caramel malt would make it seem a little brighter. Still, this is fantastic stuff and a very difficult beer to accomplish (triple IPA).