I will preface this rating by stating that I was never a huge fan of Denison’s M�rzen. I always found it a weak link in their lineup (except the smoked version). But Mill Street brewer Michael Duggan has demonstrated that when he wants to (ie. not during batches of Organic Lager), he can brew some serious beer. So putting his skills together with Denison’s impresario Michael Hancock seems to have put this Oktoberfest through the roof.

Bright bronze colour is quite eye-catching, though if you tasted this in one of those frozen space-glasses at Pure Spirits you’d probably not notice. Not much head, though. Aroma is typical Oktoberfest fare – bread crust, iron, hints of nuts and caramel. The palate, however, is a new level. Richly malty, very toasty, with lots of bread crust, and slightly smokey toffee notes. Full body, lots of melanoidins. Long, complex finish. In terms of flavour and palate, this is the most complete Oktoberfestbier I’ve ever had. The strongest outing yet from this vibrant upstart.