7.9/10
—
Appearance 7
Aroma 8
Flavor 8.5
Texture 8
Overall 7.5
American style brown ale - I have not seen that in a very long time but it was a thing in earlier days of U.S. craft brewing - created in collaboration with Van Moll, Eindhoven's craft brewing favourite, by Dok in Ghent. Can from the Delhaize at De Sterre in Ghent. Towering high, pillowy, foamy, glass-filling, dense, shred-lacing, pale brownish beige head on a lightly misty deep and dark chestnut wood brown robe with burgundy-reddish glow. Aroma of hard caramel, brown bread dough, wholegrain crackers, old pecan nuts, mace, spring blossoms (the Krush hops no doubt), rambutan (dito), toast, coffee grounds, green beans, something vaguely blood orange-like (Citra?), jasmin, sweetclover, raw pumpkin flesh. Fruity onset in a clean, sleek way, dried fig, unripe persimmon and vague pear-ish notes, relatively low in sweetness; lively carb, minerally stings throughout, in a smoothly dry-caramelly and brown bread-toasty dark maltiness, wholegrain crackers again but also something sweeter pecan-nutty, the latter aroma enhanced by the hops in this case, providing a herbal bitterness coating a deeper toasted bitterness. Those hops, Citra sounding like a logical choice for this style and Krush much less so, provide a very blossomy aroma retronasally, reminiscent of violets, chamomile, tropical orchids and cherry blossoms in spring. Something spicy (mace, old dried ginger) lingers at the back, probably the result of the hops and the malts combining into one whole - because even though this beer is apparently intended as a mindfuck, the only illogical thing about it is the choice for Krush hops, which I tend to associate with the sweet tropical fruitiness one expects to find in a hazy IPA rather than any kind of brown ale. However, after that initial clash, everything does fall into place - the tropical effect of the Krush not being so strong after all - and forms a credible, clean and nutty-malty brown ale experience. I love a good brown ale, English or American style, and this certainly is one - no doubt many consumers here in Ghent who visit Dok will expect a Belgian style dubbel, being unfamiliar with the totally different Anglo-Saxon brown ale, and perhaps this is the true mindfuck Dok intended... I can only imagine the frustration of the staff behind the bar having to explain the difference between both for the thirtieth time. As for me: this may well be the most believable and most enjoyable attempt at true brown ale so far made in Belgium. Packs a lot of flavour for its modest - but, to style, completely normal - ABV as well. I love this one.
Tried
on 16 May 2026
at 23:41