7.3/10
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Appearance 8
Aroma 7
Flavor 7
Texture 7
Overall 7.5
After those completely useless (and frankly, disgusting) additions to the old Kwak brand, our AB InBev overlords now apparently decided to also elaborate on that other Bosteels classic, Tripel Karmeliet, the famed three-grains tripel dating back to 1996 (but not the 18th century as Bosteels always wanted you to believe); the elaboration in this case is as simple as it is effective, namely turning it into a four-grains tripel by adding rye to the mash, soaking toasted oak chips in it and calling it ‘grand cru’, which is a term Belgian brewers already took over from viniculture a long time ago for more ‘special’ brews. Limitedly available (15,000 bottles), they managed to even stir a bit of a hype around this new beer as well, as it can only be ordered online and in a selection of around 150 bars and restaurants. Overly expensive 75 cl bottle (with tin tube) shared with Craftmember. Moussy, egg-white, stable, thick head leaving ‘Brugse kant’-lik lacing over a clear warm ‘old golden’ robe with a steady column of sparkling in the middle, shifting to a somewhat deeper apricot-tinged blonde further on – same as the regular Karmeliet when poured from a 75 cl bottle. Aroma of ripe banana, honey, moist white pepper, indeed a grainy rye spiciness peeping through, clove, dry bread crust, wet flour, ripe apricot, green apple, toasted peanuts, Conference pear, hint of old potatoes. Sweetish onset, banana ester with pronounced bubblegum effect and mixed with hints of apricot jam and ripe pear, strongly and sharply carbonated; supple yet full mouthfeel, a white-bready core supporting all the other grains, from spicy rye over soapy wheat to velvety oats – all adding a layer of extra ‘graininess’ to an essentially dull pale malt base, and all working together well at that. The spice bread-like effect from the rye, a bit dried thyme-like at a certain moment and connecting well with a subtle but clear toasty-nutty touch from the oak chips, noticeably enriches the basic recipe. Residual sweetness (as in the regular version), warming calvados-like alcohol (idem) and light floral hops (ibidem) join in at the end. I remember the regular Karmeliet being launched and becoming popular in the late nineties and think it has gone downhill since AB InBev took over Bosteels (having become sweeter and blander), but especially in 75 cl bottles it is still one of the better Belgian AB InBev beers, in my opinion, and this Grand Cru version, I hate to admit, is a notable improvement of the regular one in its current form: the rye indeed adds body, spiciness and character, even if the differences are subtle and the whole thing remains a sweet tripel for the more casual ‘Belgian beer drinker’.
Tried
on 22 Nov 2023
at 15:06