7.8/10
—
Appearance 8
Aroma 7.5
Flavor 8
Texture 8
Overall 7.5
Two year old lambic by Kestemont, one of the new generation lambic producers in the Pajottenland region, but actually building upon the old Goossens brewery; from tap at Malz in Leuven. No head and none expected, misty golden robe with peachy tinge. Aroma of old dried lemon peel, oxidized dry white wine, green gooseberry, wet old oak wood, oxidized green apple slices, damp hay, dried dandelion, hints of margarine, orange pith and Parmigiano. Green-fruity onset, dry and crisp, hinting at Granny Smith apple, a dash of lemon (but not too much puckering acidity) and green gooseberry as well as vague unripe plum; lactic yoghurty tartness stretching out further into the mouth but in a fruity, frivolous, elegant way, through a cereally, bit bread-crusty core. Unripe stonefruit and lemon rind lingering in the end along with a light funkiness (damp hay, mushroom) and woodiness; still, the whole never reaches true old lambic maturity in the classic sense of the word and remains supple and light-hearted, with even a slight sweet peachy note lingering in the end. Very elegant, perhaps not as deep, stern and complex as several other old lambics I had, but still showing every key feature of a ‘complete’ lambic in the right order and therefore conveying more credibility than I was – frankly – expecting. Very drinkable, very ‘real’ and very much lambic: soft and accessible for the genre, but nevertheless better than expected, and no doubt able to produce a decent geuze when blended with younger vintages.
Tried
on 25 May 2023
at 14:05