7.1/10
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Appearance 7
Aroma 7
Flavor 7.5
Texture 7
Overall 7
Stronger version of Kestemont's geuze - a relationship comparable with Boon's classic Oude Geuze versus Mariage Parfait, perhaps, with this Sterke version deliberately made stronger by using a higher original density, on top of ageing all lambics on casks that previously held wine (which contained some residual wine I suppose). Medium thick, off-white, loosely structured, large-bubbled head relatively quickly opening (especially for geuze) and dissolving, misty deep orangey 'old golden' robe with somewhat brownish tinge. Aroma seemingly dominated by old lambic with notes of very old dry sherry, preserved lemons, wet leather, old books, musty socks, Japanese pickled plums, old wooden planks, gari, dried orange peel, apple vinegar, persimmon, damp hay, cheese rind. Very estery onset, oxidized apple, tamarillo, unripe peach, gooseberry - tart but in a very soft way and indeed also carrying an unusual, somewhat 'out of place' sweetness reminiscent of sweet white grapes, dried apricots or persimmons; meanwhile the effervescence, though active, is much more mellow than in a typical geuze. Rounded, quite full mouthfeel, soft bready core under yoghurty lactic tartness but also these strong preserved fruit effects - and that sweeter apricot or persimmon flavour travelling along. Very oxidized finish in a 'noble' kind of way, as in dry fortified wine, medium dry sherry springing to mind (but a very old one) - an overall vinosity and grape-ish flavour no doubt coming from those casks. Woody tannins become fairly astringent in the end, the tartness becomes a bit more prominent but remains quite 'fruity' (again, preserved persimmons) and a very 'deeply buried' bitter note from old hops appears as well. The alcohol is palpable and warming in a sherry-like way, and indeed accentuates that odd sweet element that has been travelling along from the beginning. In the very end, moments after swallowing, a white wine-like flavour lingers, and keeps doing so for minutes on end, albeit subtly. Admittedly an interesting creation, but not at all comparable with the greatness that is Boon's Mariage Parfait geuze, to name one at the exact same alcohol level; the wine barrels add a notably sweet-grapey and sherry-like flavour but perhaps a bit too enthusiastically so, overly present from the beginning, so maybe not 'all' lambics should have been aged on wine barrels here - and as for that alcohol strength: high alcohol lambics never quite worked for me with the exception of the already mentioned Mariage Parfaits, so this one too, creative and fascinating as it may be, is not entirely my cup of tea, I fear. It tastes almost as if a big shot of white wine was poured into a glass of geuze - but I prefer my geuzes more crisp, pure, dry and tart. Clearly this is one that will divide opinions, so I am particularly curious about future ratings here.
Tried
on 24 May 2025
at 23:02