6.8/10
—
Appearance 6
Aroma 7
Flavor 7
Texture 6
Overall 7
One of the innumerable spiced ’laboratory beers’ by this unusual brewing project in Brussels, an unfiltered amber lager spiced with pasilla (dried chilaca) chili, coriander and marjoram and apparently deemed fit enough to make it into distribution outside the brewery, as I bought this bottle at Deconinck. IBU says 25 on the bottle, but 30 on the website. Strong pressure on the bottle but no gusher. Initially very frothy, off-white, regularly shaped head, stabilizing to a medium thick, very moussy rim and stable islands of flat foam in the middle, crowning a clear, warm orange blonde beer, hinting at amber, with some minute dots of yeast here and there; turns a deeper, pure and hazy amber with sediment. Aroma of a lot of soapy coriander seed, butterscotch candy, caramel even, raw carrot, damp cloth, soggy chicken corn (as in some industrial lager), freshly baked cookies, paprika-flavored potato chips (I assume this vague spicy touch represents the pasilla chilis), dried red berries, warm toast, faint iron but hardly any recognisable marjoram. Spritzy, ’clean’ onset, overcarbonated even for a lager, minerally and numbing, souring an otherwise vaguely sweetish onset devoid of esters - this is indeed clearly a lager. Supple, smooth body thanks to a nutty and caramelly, very lightly toasted malt backbone, sweetish in a cereally, ’dim’ way but acquiring some more interesting toastedness in the end, yet refraining from mouth-filling bitterness and instead showing a certain metallic quality; eventually the spices show up, in the form of soapy coriander more than anything else, while the marjoram remains very limited, if not unnoticeable (except perhaps a vague retronasal herbal accent). The chilis shine in the very end, as a slightly heating, tingling and very pleasant spiciness during and after swallowing; hop bitterness is restrained as usual - and as expected from a beer carrying only 25 IBU. Juicy, nutty malt sweetishness lingers along with the chili warmth. I visited this brewery last summer and I must admit that the whole idea behind it is fascinating and very different from anything else in Belgium, to say the least; yet I found the different beers I was able to taste back then all lacking a bit in body, especially in the finish, seen the low doses of hops these guys apparently apply. I assume the aim is to put their impressive spice rack to full use - a recurring theme in their range, it seems, as this one too contains no less than three different spices. Coriander and chili are there, but the marjoram drowns a bit into the whole even in the ’bareness’ of a lager; I’m not sure if this is a bad thing, though, because all things considered, this beer has to be seen in its specific context, being ’spiced amber lager’ with all the features one would expect from this combination of words - and honestly, I cannot think of any other beer that fits that description, Belgian or not. Have a point for originality, but I am still waiting for the first big, full-bodied and properly hopped brew from them which rises above this new ’Brussels hype’ with all those new brewing initiatives there, fascinating as they may be. Not sure if this brewery can do it, but with this amount of enthusiasm, originality and - more than anything else - extreme prolificacy, it would be unfair to stop believing.
Tried
from Bottle
on 03 Feb 2017
at 17:57