7.6/10
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Appearance 7
Aroma 7.5
Flavor 7.5
Texture 8
Overall 8
Ever since I first started to take beer seriously, more than a quarter of a century ago, I have wondered why some old styles are what they are – including the fact that lambic traditionally is always a pale beer… I asked myself more than once why nobody at the time brewed dark lambics, but of course “sticking to tradition and history” is the only reasonable answer to that question, given that the experimental tendencies of the great global craft beer movement had not arrived in Europe yet at the time. The theoretical possibility of ‘dark lambic’ became reality in 2015 with Cantillon’s Zwanze of that year (a “spontaneously fermented stout”) and again in the spring of 2017 with Nocturne, 3 Fonteinen’s very first Twist of Fate; the latter was poured for me by the legendary Armand Debelder himself, who clarified that this experiment of turning lambic into a dark beer had lead to something eerily close to oud bruin (Flemish red), which may be the reason why the idea did not caught on, because what is the point if a whole tradition of oud bruin already exists… In fact I cannot even think of any other examples, at least not within the Belgian lambic tradition – and then suddenly Lindemans comes up with this: a ‘dark geuze’, aged on cognac barrels on top of that. Knowing how refined Lindemans’ special editions often are, I was stoked to sample this one, so big thanks to my neighbour Jo for sharing the bottle! Pale yellowish beige, moussey, medium sized, slowly breaking but generally well-retaining head on an initially clear ruddy brown robe with mahogany glow, hazy further on. Aroma of blackberries, unripe blueberries, sour grapes, dry caramel, brown bread, vanilla-ish oak wood and indeed a whiff of brandy, old wrinkled autumn apples, wet tree leaves on a forest floor (with sediment), touches of balsamico and passionfruit but little Brett ‘funkiness’. Very fruity, tart onset, lots of blackberry, medlar, halfripe plum and apple peel impressions, sour with a sweetish core – and sour in a very ‘malse’, soft way; moderately carbonated with minerally effects but no real ‘champenoise’ effect. Dry-caramelly, brown-bready maltiness, supple and rounded, with vinous mouthfeel and slick wheatiness underneath; the dark malts even briefly and gently provide a toasty bitter accent further on, while this tart ‘autumn fruit’ component remains very dominant, aided by yoghurty lactic sourness. The overall vinosity is even increased in the finish due to the cognac effect; the liquor does not become too strong, though, supporting the ‘grapey fruitiness’ rather than heating it, accompanied by rustic woodiness (even vague ‘oaky vanilla’ retronasally). Supple, tasty and, in all, quite ‘clean’; indeed – unsurprisingly – very oud bruin-like, even in a way reminiscent of Rodenbach Vintage and the like. Interesting beer in my opinion, but that said, if you are looking for an actual dark geuze, this will not live up to expectations, as it clearly lacks the ‘wild’ complexity, effervescence, funkiness and depth a ‘normal’ geuze, if properly done, has to offer. My rating here remains however based on whether I liked it or not, and I sure enjoyed this creation – and intend to keep another bottle in the cellar for a while and see how it evolves.
Tried
on 17 May 2025
at 20:51