7.9/10
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Appearance 8
Aroma 7.5
Flavor 7.5
Texture 8
Overall 8.5
Hefty imperial porter from Italian classic Toccalmatto, bought at Dranken Geers. Densely creamy, thick but slowly diminishing, cream-beige, regular head on a very dark chocolate brown beer, as good as black in fact, with wine red edge near the bottom of the glass. Strong bouquet of cold Irish coffee or cold cappuccino, toffee, plum candy, blackberry jam, chewing tobacco, walnut liqueur, freshly sliced red apple, mocha ice cream, pear, grappa, hints of cigar ashes, dried fig and maraschino. Sweetish onset but not in a 'pastry' way, instead quite lively fruity with red apple, pear and blue plum impressions, with a thin sourish edge kept active by small-bubbled but palpable sparkling; rounded, slick, smooth malt core, caramel, walnut oil, bitter black chocolate and eventually coffee, with a mouth-filling yet altogether 'friendly' and soft roastiness. Remains balanced between sweet and bitter, without exaggerated ashy or otherwise earthy effects, developing a spicy, bit leafy hop bitter element in the end reinforced by maraschino- and grappa-like, warming alcohol in which the red fruitiness, coffee and chocolate combo and spicy elements remain sharply cut. Background retronasal impression of comté cheese paired with fig jam - brief and volatile, but lingering a little bit. Down on the tongue, a lingering coffee roastiness does appear after swallowing, but in a way sufficiently rounded to indeed justify the imperial porter qualification made by the brewery. An inherently powerful, robust style of beer noticeably, if subtly, filtered through the culinary elegance and 'raffinatezza' of one of the top names in the glorious Italian craft beer movement. I love it, in all its old-fashionedness.
Tried
on 24 Feb 2023
at 23:53