7.9/10
—
Appearance 8
Aroma 8
Flavor 8
Texture 8
Overall 7.5
BBP's Dansaert project, playing with the old Brussels theme of spontaneous fermentation which has been revived to such a high degree in recent years thanks to the craft beer movement, has apparently gained enough confidence by now to tackle the ultimate lambic beer: geuze. Following the legally defined proportions of lambics of one, two and three years old, this geuze does have its own twist, as those lambics have first spent time in various wine and grappa barrels - see the Dansaert lambic series for all the variants that have been made. I was very curious about this one, after a pleasant encounter with their madera barrel aged lambic in Ghent and a few more in Brussels. Medium sized, slowly breaking, shred-lacing, off-white head on a misty apricot-hued warm golden robe with fine strings of sparkling rising up in the middle. Complex aroma of old oak wood, wet leather and 'horseblanket', crabapples, unripe nectarine, grapefruit juice turning stale, sweat, raw rhubarb, sour grapes, damp hay, redcurrant, old oxidized and very dry white wine, cava even, wood sorrel, lemon peel, volatile hints of manure and sulfur near the end of the bottle but fading quickly. Crisp onset, crystalline effervescence like some crémant, a whirlwind of green apple, rhubarb, green plum, gooseberry and unripe nectarine, with both a lemony-sour edge (sharpish but not too harshly puckering) and a sweetish white grape-tinged core; the lactic acid then takes over and elevates the lemon and gooseberry flavours far over any sweetness, turning the palate increasingly dry, especially when strong woody tannins come in. Slender bready core, a bit less 'crusty' perhaps than in many other, established geuzes, but the ever-shifting play of green and unripe stonefruit, sour rhubarb and wood flavours keep the whole entertaining throughout the bottle. Wood sorrel and wild apple effects join in during the finish, so that eventually a 'green' kind of zingy acidity with drying and quenching effect gets the upper hand; the wine barrels (not so much the grappa) are noticeable, with that typical fruity wine tartness further colouring the finish. Old hop bitterness, however, remains very subdued and does not play an active role in the flavour composition (though it is certainly there behind the curtains). Based on my experiences with various Dansaert lambics, this geuze matches my expectations exactly: crisp and sharp, zingy, fruity and supple with that lemony twang to it, but lacking a bit in deeper structure, which could have been provided by a more dense maltiness and more old hop bitterness. Frivolous and vibrant geuze, though, which any lambic lover should try, as far as I am concerned.
Tried
on 03 Nov 2023
at 21:31